Replace Brakes On Ford F150: Quick Fix!

Replacing brakes on a Ford F-150 isn’t rocket science; it means taking off the wheel, removing the caliper, swapping the old pads and rotors, and putting everything back snug and safe. The job sounds tough, but with the right tools, it’s totally doable in your own driveway.

You don’t need to be a pro mechanic to follow this. This guide is written so that anyone, even if it’s your first time under a truck, can get it done with confidence and zero confusion.

Here, you’ll discover the tools you need, warning signs of worn brakes, and step-by-step instructions to replace them on your F-150. Simple, detailed, and a little fun, just how DIY truck work should be!

Contents

Understanding Your F-150’s Brake System

Before diving into the replacement process, it’s essential to understand how your F-150’s braking system works. The brake system uses friction between brake pads and rotors to slow down and stop your vehicle. When you press the brake pedal, calipers push the brake pads against the disc-shaped rotors, creating the friction necessary to bring your truck to a safe stop.

Modern F-150s (2015 and newer) often feature an Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) system, which requires special procedures during brake service that we’ll cover in detail below.

When to Replace Your F-150 Brakes

Common Warning Signs

Several symptoms indicate it’s time to replace your brake pads, including squealing or screeching noises when braking, loud grinding sounds, vibrations in the brake pedal or steering wheel, and thin-looking brake pads upon visual inspection.

Some brake pads contain a small metal indicator tab that makes contact with the brake rotor when the pad material wears down, causing a squealing sound as a warning that replacement is needed. If you ignore these warning signs, the metal backing plate can grind against the rotor, causing expensive damage.

Typical Brake Pad Lifespan

Ford F-150 brake pads typically last between 30,000 and 70,000 miles, depending on driving habits. City driving with frequent braking, mountainous terrain, and aggressive driving styles will reduce brake pad life significantly.

Important Safety Note: It is not safe to operate any vehicle with a braking problem, and if brakes are not performing as intended, the vehicle should be immediately towed and repaired.

Cost Comparison: DIY vs. Professional Service

Professional Brake Replacement Costs

Understanding the cost of professional brake service can help you decide whether to tackle this job yourself:

Brake Pad Replacement Only: Professional brake pad replacement for a Ford F-150 typically costs between $225 and $295
Brake Pads and Rotors: Replacing all four rotors can cost between $300 and $750, including labor and parts
Complete Brake Job: Full brake service, including pads, rotors, and potential caliper work, can range from $500 to over $2,000, depending on the extent of work needed

DIY Brake Replacement Costs

By performing the work yourself, you can save significantly on labor costs:

Brake Pads: Ford F-150 brake pad sets start under $30 per set, with options varying by material type, such as ceramic or semi-metallic pads
Rotors: Quality aftermarket rotors typically range from $40-$100 per rotor
Complete Brake Kit: Standard replacement brake kits that include premium semi-metallic brake pads and rotors are available with free shipping options

Most DIY brake jobs can be completed for $150-$400 in parts, representing substantial savings over professional service.

Essential Tools and Materials Needed

Required Tools

Essential tools for changing brakes include a jack and jack stands to safely lift and support your vehicle, wheel chocks to prevent rolling, a screwdriver set for removing clips, a ratchet and socket set for bolts, Allen wrenches and hex keys for specialized bolts, standard wrenches for additional leverage, and a torque wrench to ensure wheel lugs are properly tightened.

Additional Tools You’ll Need

13mm socket and wrench: For removing caliper bolts
21mm socket: For loosening lug nuts
C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool: To compress the caliper piston back into the housing
Brake parts cleaner: For cleaning components
Wire brush: For cleaning caliper brackets and hardware
Silicone brake lubricant: For lubricating slide pins and contact points
Copper anti-seize: For preventing seizure on mounting hardware

Safety Equipment

Wear a dust mask to protect yourself from brake dust and debris during the replacement process. Safety glasses and gloves are also highly recommended.

Replacement Parts Needed

New brake pads (front or rear set)
New brake rotors (if replacing)
Brake hardware kit (clips, springs, shims)
Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 as specified in your owner’s manual)
Brake grease or lubricant

Special Considerations for Electronic Parking Brake (EPB)

What is EPB and Why Does It Matter?

Most Ford vehicles in recent years with an electric parking brake must access a special service mode for any repair to the parking brake or rear brakes, including pad changes.

Critical Warning: When the truck is in brake maintenance mode, the brakes are completely non-operational because the system allows the pistons to be compressed, preventing pressure buildup. This means you should never attempt to drive the vehicle while in maintenance mode.

How to Enter EPB Maintenance Mode

To activate maintenance mode: Set the ignition to ON, press and hold the accelerator pedal, place the EPB switch in the RELEASE downward position, and continue holding both the accelerator pedal and EPB switch; then set the ignition to OFF and release both controls.

The EPB system will be deactivated with the yellow electronic parking brake indicator illuminated and maintenance mode displayed on the message center.

How to Exit EPB Maintenance Mode

The procedure to exit maintenance mode has been updated for newer F-150s:

For 2021 and newer F-150s: Set the ignition to ON, press and hold the accelerator pedal and place the EPB switch in the APPLY upward position, continue holding both, firmly press the brake pedal for at least 1 second then release it while continuing to hold the accelerator and EPB switch, set the ignition to OFF then back to ON within 5 seconds, then release the accelerator pedal and EPB switch.

Important: After completing brake work and exiting maintenance mode, the manual instructs you to apply the brakes several times to ensure proper activation before driving.

Troubleshooting EPB Issues

If you become stuck in maintenance mode, ensure your battery voltage is adequate (above 12 volts). Low battery voltage can prevent the EPB system from properly exiting maintenance mode. Some owners have found success by charging the battery, idling the vehicle for 10-15 minutes, or using diagnostic tools to reset the system.

Step-by-Step: Front Brake Replacement

Preparation and Safety

Park your Ford on a level surface and engage the parking brake to prevent the car from rolling, then use the lug wrench to slightly loosen the lug nuts on the wheel where the brake pads will be changed.

Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels for additional safety. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap to allow fluid to return when compressing pistons.

Step 1: Lift and Secure the Vehicle

Jack up the truck and place it on jack stands, raising it just high enough to remove the tire. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

Finish removing the loosened lug nuts and take off the wheel, placing it under the vehicle as an additional safety measure.

Step 2: Inspect the Brake Components

Before proceeding, examine your brake system. Check the brake pads for thickness, inspect the rotors for grooves or warping, examine the caliper for leaks, and look at the brake hoses for cracks or damage.

Step 3: Remove the Brake Caliper

Locate the caliper and remove the two bolts holding it on, then carefully pull the caliper off the rotor and place it away from the axle, paying special attention to the brake line to avoid crimping or tearing it.

Support the caliper with a bungee cord or wire to prevent stress on the brake line. Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove Old Brake Pads and Hardware

Remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket. Take note of how the anti-rattle clips and hardware are positioned before removal, as you’ll need to install new hardware in the same configuration.

Step 5: Clean and Inspect the Caliper Bracket

Spray down your caliper mounting bracket thoroughly with brake cleaner, and replace the bracket if there is any rust where the pads or brake hardware ride.

Use a wire brush to clean the slide pin bores and contact points where the pads sit. This ensures the smooth operation of your new brakes.

Step 6: Replace Rotors (If Needed)

If you’re replacing rotors, remove the caliper bracket by taking out the mounting bolts. Remove the guide pins from the mounting bracket, wipe them down with a shop towel, and apply fresh silicone grease, then reinstall them, replacing them if they’re rusted or pitted.

Slide the old rotor off the hub and install the new rotor. Use a lug nut to hold it in place while working.

Reinstall the bracket, finger-tighten the bolts, and torque them to 184 foot-pounds.

Step 7: Compress the Caliper Piston

Use a C-clamp or brake caliper tool to compress the piston back into the caliper, creating enough space for the new, thicker pads.

Place an old brake pad between the piston and the compression tool, ensuring the piston is flush with the caliper housing without pinching the dust boot.

Step 8: Install New Hardware and Brake Pads

Install new brake hardware into the bracket and use silicone grease to lubricate where the pads will ride.

Apply brake grease to the top and bottom of the new pads to reduce brake noise, being careful not to add grease to the brake pad friction material itself or get grease on the rotor.

Place the new brake pads into the caliper bracket, making sure they are seated properly and aligned with the rotor.

Step 9: Reinstall the Caliper

Position the caliper over the new pads and rotor, then tighten the caliper bolts securely.

Hand-tighten the caliper bolts first, then once everything is lined up, finish tightening to the proper torque specification.

Step 10: Reinstall the Wheel

Place the wheel back onto the hub and hand-tighten the lug nuts, then lower the car using the jack and use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Repeat the entire process on the opposite side. Always replace brake pads in pairs (both fronts or both rears).

Step-by-Step: Rear Brake Replacement

Rear brake replacement follows a similar process to front brakes, but with crucial differences for vehicles equipped with an Electronic Parking Brake.

Step 1: Enter EPB Maintenance Mode (If Equipped)

This step is critical: If your truck has an Electronic Parking Brake, it must be put in Service Mode before replacing rear brakes.

Follow the activation procedure outlined in the EPB section above. Failure to do this can result in damaged calipers or the inability to install new brake pads.

Step 2: Follow Standard Brake Replacement Procedure

Once in maintenance mode, follow the same general steps as front brake replacement: lift and secure the vehicle, remove the wheel, remove the caliper, replace pads and rotors, and reassemble.

Step 3: Compress Rear Caliper Pistons

When replacing rear brake pads in maintenance mode, the brake caliper piston must be compressed into the caliper housing, and the piston does not have to be rotated while compressing it.

This differs from some other vehicles, where rear pistons need to be rotated. For F-150s with EPB, simple compression is sufficient.

Step 4: Exit EPB Maintenance Mode

After completing the brake replacement and reinstalling the wheels, follow the deactivation procedure to exit maintenance mode. This is essential before attempting to drive the vehicle.

Break-In Procedure for New Brakes

New brake pads require proper break-in to achieve optimal performance and longevity.

Initial Break-In Steps

Once everything is tight and the truck is lowered, sit in the driver’s seat and depress the brake pedal until you feel a hard brake, as it should feel soft at first. These seats are the pads against the rotors.

Check your brake fluid reservoir and add fluid if necessary. The level will have dropped slightly due to the new, thicker pads pushing fluid back into the reservoir.

Driving Break-In Period

Drive smoothly and avoid sudden braking for the first 30 miles to prevent glazing the new pads. Glazing occurs when brake pad material overheats and hardens during the break-in period due to improper bedding.

Perform several gentle stops from moderate speeds (30-40 mph) to gradually transfer a thin layer of pad material to the rotor surface. Avoid hard, aggressive braking during the first few hundred miles.

Recommended Brake Pad and Rotor Brands

OEM vs. Aftermarket Considerations

Consensus among F-150 owners is to stick with OEM brake components, as they’re designed specifically for your truck’s weight and braking requirements. However, quality aftermarket options can provide excellent performance and value.

Popular Aftermarket Brands

Many F-150 owners report success with these aftermarket brake manufacturers:

PowerStop: Known for complete brake kits with ceramic pads and drilled/slotted rotors
EBC: Popular for slotted rotors and various pad compounds
Wagner: Budget-friendly OE-replacement pads
Akebono: Premium ceramic brake pads with low dust
Brembo: High-performance brake components
Carquest Professional Platinum: Ceramic pads with low brake dust

Premium semi-metallic brake pads are manufactured using a positive molding process that ensures consistent friction material density throughout the pad, resulting in even wear and performance throughout the brake pad’s life.

Brake Pad Material Types

Ceramic Brake Pads:

Quietest operation
Lowest brake dust
Excellent for daily driving
Moderate performance under heavy loads

Semi-Metallic Brake Pads:

Better heat dissipation
Superior performance when towing or hauling
More brake dust than ceramic
May be slightly noisier

Organic Brake Pads:

Softest on rotors
Least expensive
Wear faster than other types
Not recommended for heavy-duty use

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Not Using Maintenance Mode on EPB-Equipped Trucks

This is the most common and potentially expensive mistake. Always verify whether your F-150 has an electronic parking brake and follow the proper procedures.

Contaminating New Brake Pads or Rotors

Any grease or automotive fluid other than water on the brake rotor will instantly contaminate the brake pad, necessitating replacement. Handle new pads and rotors carefully, avoiding touching the friction surfaces with greasy hands.

Failing to Replace Brake Hardware

Old clips, springs, and anti-rattle hardware can cause noise and uneven wear. Always install new hardware that typically comes with quality brake pad sets.

Neglecting to Clean Caliper Brackets

Rust and debris on the bracket surfaces can prevent pads from sliding freely, causing premature wear and reduced braking performance.

Not Checking Brake Fluid Level

After compressing caliper pistons, brake fluid returns to the reservoir. Check the level and top off as needed, but don’t overfill, as the level will rise when new pads are installed.

Improper Torque Specifications

Under-tightened or over-tightened bolts can lead to brake failure or component damage. Always use a torque wrench for caliper and wheel lug bolts.

FAQ

Can I replace just the brake pads without replacing rotors?

Yes, if the rotors are within specification for thickness and show no signs of warping, scoring, or heat damage. However, brake rotors show wear patterns after repeated contact with old brake pads and must be replaced to avoid brake noise, uneven braking pressure, and unpredictable braking performance.

Should I replace all four wheels at once?

Not necessarily. Brake pads are replaced in pairs, both front wheels or both rear wheels at the same time. However, if all four corners need replacement, doing them together can save time.

How long does a DIY brake replacement take?

For an experienced DIYer, expect 1-2 hours per axle. First-timers should allow 3-4 hours per axle to work carefully and thoroughly.

Do I need to bleed the brakes after pad replacement?

Generally, no, unless you disconnect brake lines or have air in the system. You might need to bleed the brake lines in some situations, and if you’re unsure how to do it yourself, have this done by a professional.

What if my brake pedal feels soft after replacement?

When you first get in, the brake should feel soft, but pumping the brake pedal several times will seat the pads and restore normal pedal feel. If the pedal remains soft, there may be air in the system requiring bleeding.

Can I mix brake pad brands on the front and rear?

While not ideal, you can use different brands front and rear. Never mix different pad types or brands on the same axle, as this causes uneven braking.

How do I know if my rotors need replacement or can be resurfaced?

Rotors must be measured for minimum thickness and checked for runout (warping). Most auto parts stores offer free rotor testing. In many cases, replacement is more cost-effective than resurfacing.

What causes brake squealing after replacement?

Common causes include contamination from grease or oil, missing or incorrectly installed hardware, glazed pads from improper break-in, or pads that haven’t been properly bedded yet.

Conclusion

Replacing the brakes on your Ford F-150 is a manageable DIY project that can save you hundreds of dollars in labor costs while ensuring your truck’s safety and performance. By following this comprehensive guide, using quality parts, and taking your time to do the job correctly, you’ll enjoy reliable, confident braking for thousands of miles to come.

Remember to always prioritize safety both during the repair process and when testing your newly installed brakes. Start with gentle stops in a safe area to verify proper operation before returning to normal driving conditions.